If you don't want to be standing out in the cold arguing with a snowblower that doesn't want to run, then do the annual maintenance before the snow starts flying. Regular maintenance will give you years of hassle free use, and less attitude from your blower. Don't forget the safety aspect, because without proper maintenance your snowblower could become a hazard.
Each fall before winter arrives, you should check all bolts, belts, and moving parts, to ensure they are not frayed, loose, or worn. Belts are best checked by removing and checking for cracks. Replace any worn parts, and tighten any loose bolts.
Turn your snowblower on its side and check the scraper bar. This is the bar that rubs against the ground and scrapes the snow off. This item wears, so check to see if it need replacement. If you neglect to replace the bar when it is worn, it will lead to damage on the snowblower's housing, and that's will hurt your pocket book. In fact, if your snowblower gets a lot of use through out the season, check it regularly.
Check the rubber paddles and the rubber on the auger. If your finger fits between the rubber and the housing it's time to replace the rubber. A new rubber will help your snowblower operate at its optimum performance levels.
Check tires for wear and proper inflation. Adjust as needed. If you have tire chains for your snowblower, have them handy or put them on in advance. There's nothing worse than searching in the freezing cold, while trying to remember where you put the chains.
There are only two types of snow blower engines: The two cylinder engine which uses mixed gas and oil. You'll just need to replace the spark plug on this style of engine.
If you have a four cylinder engine which uses straight gas, with the oil in the crank case just like your vehicle, you'll need to change the oil, spark plug, and filter. You should also check the oil each time before you start it. Most four cylinders use 5W30 oil, and hold approx 20 ounces. Refer to your owner's manual for the correct oil weight, and replacement part numbers.
Lube the drive and chassis. If you have two stage blower, make sure you check the lube in the gear box. Check with your owners manual whether you have a one stage or two stage. It will also tell you the type of lubricant to use.
If there was fuel left from the previous year, you'll need to siphon it off, and fill the gas tank with fresh gasoline. It doesn't hurt to add some methanol in with the fuel, once or twice a season, to avoid condensation from building up in the tank, or the carburetor icing up.
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
Tips for maintaining your Snowblower
Tips On Car Leasing
Leasing a car isn't for everyone. If you're like me and keep your car for many, many years then leasing isn't for you. If however, you don't get "attached" to a vehicle as some of us do, and you like having a new car every few years then leasing may be for you.
Today's cars are built very well and you can expect to get a good amount of mileage from your car. You can expect at least 100,000 miles. If you purchase a car you may have five years of payments, but your car may last eight to ten years. This means three to five years of no monthly car payments. However, as you car ages, the need for upkeep goes up too. With more mileage on you car things start to break down and costs to keep your car up mechanically may go up. It's doubtful though that what you pay out for maintenance and car repair will ever be as much as monthly payments would be.
When you lease a car you make monthly payments as you would if you purchased a car outright. But, when a lease is up you have nothing to show for it. These monthly payments may be somewhat less than if you were buying the car. Leasing a car usually requires large down payments and security deposits, taxes and fees. It isn't necessarily cheaper up front than buying a car. Also, when you lease a car you have mileage restrictions. A lease generally allows between 12,000 and 15,000 miles annually. If you go over that amount you pay for each mile. This can really add up.
Leasing doesn't mean you don't have to pay for upkeep. You are held to the manufacturers specified servicing schedule for your vehicle. If you don't have the required maintenance performed this can void your lease.
If you want to end the lease early there are generally large termination fees. At the end of your lease if there is damage to the car, or if there are missing parts you will be charged for them.
Make sure if you are considering leasing a vehicle that you understand all the fine print in the contact and all possible extra costs before signing on the dotted line.
Are You Tired of Trite Tips on Fuel Savings
In these days of record high fuel prices affecting already stretched budgets, many of us are looking for tips on fuel savings. Unfortunately, most tips are “no-brainers”.
Some suggest staying within posted speed limits because “…the faster you drive, the more fuel you use.” Daah !!! Explain that to a teenager!
Oh, here’s one – “combine errands”. Come on, anyone who runs a household figured that one out eons ago, just to maintain sanity.
Here’s another I just love – remove excess weight. Hmm… let me think, I can make the kids walk to their sports events or mall, and meet them when they arrive. And, of course, ban any friends from catching a ride. But then again, when the riot occurs, the police will have to use their fuel instead.
After much research, here’s a few fuel savings tips I found that actually make sense:
1. Depending on a vehicle’s condition, you can increase fuel savings simply by keeping your engine tuned.
2. Maintaining proper inflation of tires can increase fuel savings by up to 6%.
3. Replace air, oil, and fuel filters regularly. Clogged filters decrease fuel savings.
But the best tip to date is this simple fuel savings solution:
A small Power Pill, the size of a penny, that can be dropped into the tank at fill up. Here’s what the PowerPill does:
· Provides fuel savings averaging 15% on cars and 20% on diesel trucks
· Conditions the engine by cleaning it, resulting in eliminating and preventing what is known as “carbon deposits”, the culprit behind decreased fuel savings.
· Lowering octane requirements, thus saving an additional 5¢ to 10¢ per gallon.
· More savings on maintenance by extending the life of spark plugs, valves, engine, and frequent oil changes.
· Environmental benefits by significantly reducing toxic pollutants, which in essence allows us to breathe cleaner air and live longer.
Car Care Tips for Students and Parents
Parents and students will do well to get their vehicles in shape before winter arrives, according to the pros and the nonprofit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE). Many breakdowns can be avoided entirely by routine maintenance. The following tips from ASE should give parent and student alike a road map to fall car care.
First things first -- Read your owner’s manual and follow the manufacturer’s recommended service schedules.
Engine Performance -- Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repair shop. Cold weather will make existing problems worse. Replace dirty filters—air, fuel, PCV, etc.
Fuel -- Put a bottle of fuel de-icer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note, too, that a gas tank that’s kept filled helps prevent moisture from forming.
Oil -- Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual -- more often (every 3,000 miles or so) if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips.
Cooling System -- The cooling system should be flushed and refilled as recommended. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.) If you’re doing your own work, never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a certified auto technician.
Heater/Defroster -- The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility.
Windshield Wipers -- Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Stock up on windshield washer solvent; you’ll be surprised how much you use. Carry an ice-scraper.
Battery -- The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly.
A word of caution: Removal of cables can cause damage or loss of data/codes on some newer vehicles. Check your manual. Be sure to avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.
Lights -- Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses. To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.
Exhaust System -- Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floorboards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly.
Tires -- Worn tires will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tire pressure once a month. Let the tires “cool down” before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended. Don’t forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition.
Emergencies -- Carry gloves, boots, blankets, flares, a small shovel, sand or kitty litter, tire chains, a flashlight, and a cell phone. Put a few “high-energy” snacks in your glove box.
